Does Franz’s Tavern really have the best crab cake in Lebanon County?

(Originally published Feb. 22, 2019 for the Lebanon Daily News) — From the faded red and green sign outside, to the slogan, “Cold beer and pretty good food,” Franz’s Tavern & Restaurant looks and sounds like a typical, unassuming neighborhood bar.

The modesty ends on the menu. Franz’s claims to have the best crab cakes in Lebanon County – “Really! That’s what you’ll say after you try one!” — and there’s nothing typical or unassuming about a cheesesteak baked on an 18-inch Amoroso roll.

Diners agree: Pretty good food isn’t doing Franz’s Tavern justice.

Overheard at Franz’s

“The food is over the top,” said Leo Skladany, who made the trip from Manheim. “We love the country atmosphere, too.”

Skladany and Tony Kudela of Mount Gretna were seated at the bar on a weekday afternoon, raving out loud about how amazing their lunches were. They ordered cream of potato soup and Philly-style Italian pork sandwiches from a large, ever-rotating list of specials.

The gentlemen enjoyed the soup, but could not stop gushing about the pork.

“Tastes like South Philly,” said Skladany. “This is gourmet. It really is.”

“That was the right blend of everything,” said Kudela.

Skladany ordered the same meal to take home “for my wife.” Kudela did the same. In hindsight, I’m not so sure these were completely selfless acts. They were probably hoping the ladies would share.

Best crab cake in Lebanon?

I ordered the backfin crab cake sandwich because it was the only way to try the “Best in the County” at lunch. Dinner entrées are only available after 5 p.m.

Without having sampled crab cake at every establishment in Lebanon, I’m in no position to verify Franz’s claim — but you would be hard-pressed to find better. The cake was consistent, remaining intact in the sandwich, and neither cocktail nor tartar sauce were required to appreciate it.

After speaking to Todd Kenee, owner and chef at Franz’s Tavern, it was easy to understand why he takes such pride in this dish.

“We use real crab meat,” said Kenee.

“We’re using a jumbo lump and a backfin to keep the consistency together, and we use one piece of white bread for every four pounds of crab meat to hold it together, so there’s very little filler in our crab meat.”

What’s wrong with “Todd’s?”

Kenee grew up in the area, attending South Lebanon Elementary School before his family moved to Hershey. He remembers coming to Franz’s Tavern as a kid because, before cable, it was the only place near their home that could get the Phillies on the radio.

After graduating from Johnson & Wales University with an associate degree in culinary arts and Bachelor of Science in business, Kenee started searching for a restaurant to call his own.

“I bought this place when I was around 30 years old,” said Kenee. “I’m 55 now and I’ve been here ever since.

“I just wanted to be on my own and be away from corporate life basically. I bailed out at a very early age.”

Kenee kept the nearly century-old Franz’s Tavern moniker — named for Frances Gearhart, who also operated the building as a World War II post office — joking, “What was I supposed to call it? Todd’s?”

There’s a ton of history both on display and surrounding the establishment itself, built in the 1840s, meshing perfectly with the old fashioned, country pub setting.

More than a neighborhood pub

Yet, the food is what packs the house at Franz’s Tavern, where reservations are pretty much mandatory for Friday and Saturday nights. The following runs so deep here, the restaurant calls some of its regular customers to let them know when certain made-from-scratch soups are on the menu.

At its heart, Franz’s is a pub. There’s a jukebox, Megatouch, a trivia night (Tuesdays), free bingo night (Wednesdays), chicken wings and some “God Awful” menu items, which is anything that’s a double portion or big enough to feed two people, like the 18-inch cheesesteaks.

There’s almost an upscale dining aspect to Franz’s as well, with numerous seafood and steak entrées on the dinner menu at all times.

It’s not cheap — a sandwich with a drink and a tip will likely run around $15 per person, an entrée closer to $25 — but the prices are well worth it.